Even if Choi Hyun-seok weren’t a celebrity chef, he would still stand out in a crowd. Towering at 1.9m, his posture is ramrod straight and there’s a faintly theatrical air about him. It’s probably part instinct, part habit, honed by years in front of television cameras.

This presence comes to life during our photography session. Chest puffed out, arms folded, then planted firmly on his hips, he stares into the camera with a half-smirk playing on his lips. It’s a commanding aura that has helped make him one of South Korea’s most famous chefs.