SINGAPORE - I last met Singaporean chef Marcus Leow over two years ago, at the now-defunct Magic Square restaurant. 

Back then, his thoughtful use of underrated local ingredients – from pink guava to starfruit – alongside Japanese produce already shone through.

Since end-2024, the 33-year-old chef joined nasi lemak specialist The Coconut Club as its head of research and development, and now takes on the additional portfolio of head chef at its sister restaurant Belimbing. 

The 48-seat establishment – a nod to the sour fruit – opens in Beach Road on April 15, above The Coconut Club on the ground floor. 

At Belimbing, chef Leow offers his take on what is termed as “new-Gen Singaporean” food, once again showcasing how local ingredients and flavours can be elevated in his hands. 

A four-course menu ($88++) is available for dinner, while a two-course menu ($58++) and a selection of a la carte dishes are offered at lunch. 

Pink guava and starfruit show up on two starter options in the lunch and dinner menus. 

The aged kanpachi features pickled pink guava, tender mussels and a cold curry made with The Coconut Club’s cold-pressed “White Sutera” coconut milk, while the combination of starfruit with chinchalok and creamy stracciatella cheese work harmoniously with the smoked wagyu ox tongue. 

If you prefer a hot starter, go for the clam custard – a take on chawanmushi. I realise I don’t even need the clams because the assam pedas sauce and white pepper emulsion pack in such rich flavour. 

For dinner, go for the rojak-inspired grilled firefly squid appetiser, a standout for its creative inclusion of strawberries and haegor (prawn paste) caramel enhanced with slow-cooked Argentinean prawn shells. This one is not for the rojak purists. 

You will have another tough choice picking the main, where the rice is no side show. 

For the wok-fried nasi ulam, it is first steamed in fish bone dashi, then fried with sambal belado and belacan, and finally grilled in banana leaves. It is served with seasonal fish.

Both the fried chicken and grilled beef short rib (add $7) come with The Coconut Club’s signature coconut rice. The fried chicken main edges out the beef, simply because its accompanying rice is topped with crispy bits of chicken skin and berempah batter. 

Desserts are an add-on, and you should save space for them. 

Fans of the chef’s signature corn...