SINGAPORE – Pasta, to me, is one of the most endlessly enjoyable foods on earth. One plate? No problem. Even two is manageable, with some help.

But four? Now that is the true test of any pasta aficionado. Sure, you might have very nice things to say about that first bite, but 200g in, even the most artisanally crafted ribbon of semolina flour will start tasting like a real workout. 

So, it is with some amazement that I find myself polishing off the final plate of Osteria Mozza’s pasta tasting menu. I can taste its individual components – brown butter, balsamic vinegar, aged 25 years and a hint of sage – and the fact that they all pair beautifully together still registers in my mind. 

The five-course menu, rolled out in September, is modelled after the same concept in chef Nancy Silverton’s Los Angeles flagship. It includes four rounds of pasta, which come up to around two full portions in total. For $88++ and this many carbs, it is the kind of extravagance you have to steel yourself for.

Branded as an ode to the craft of pasta-making, it features different varieties of handmade pasta, rolled and shaped from as early as 5am. The inaugural edition of the menu starts with maltagliati – “badly shaped” triangular sheets – in duck ragu, robust and tender. 

Next comes chef Silverton’s favourite pasta, and mine too – the Mafaldine all’Amatriciana. There is levity to these bouncy, curly edged noodles, robed in a tomato-based sauce salted with crispy guanciale and pecorino romano.

The third dish is made with orecchiette, and marks a refreshing departure from the tomato-based pastas that have thus far dominated the meal. Its derives its rich, savoury flavour from a caramelised base of Swiss chard and fennel sausage, seasoned with Aleppo peppers, Parmigiano Reggiano and fennel pollen. A sprinkle of toasted breadcrumbs ties everything together with a tantalising crunch.

It is a bold move to put the most indulgent dish – the restaurant’s signature fonduta ravioli – at the end of the meal, but the modest portion ho...