Can wearing an LED mask really improve your skin?

4 days ago 46

NEW YORK – You have probably noticed this scene on social media: People, usually women, lounging on couches or in beds while wearing serial-killer-style face masks with colourful lights emanating from beneath them.

Typically referred to as light therapy or LED face masks, these contraptions use light-emitting diodes to shine light at specific wavelengths onto the skin for various purposes such as reducing wrinkles, firming the skin and controlling acne.

The devices, which are also available in wand form, are popular. They can also be pricey, with some costing several thousand dollars.

We asked two dermatologists and two facial plastic surgeons for their takes.

What is light therapy supposed to do?

LED masks feature eye and mouth holes and are typically held in place with straps. Hand-held wands are lightly pressed against the skin and slowly moved around. Both bathe the skin in various wavelengths of light, depending on what they are trying to accomplish.

Many devices emit red light with wavelengths from 630 to 700 nanometres. Red light can penetrate deeply into the skin to increase the production of collagen and elastin, proteins that help to maintain skin’s strength and elasticity, said Dr Akshay Sanan, a facial plastic surgeon in Boston.

By boosting those proteins, red light may minimise wrinkles and help skin appear younger. It can also “reduce inflammation and accelerate healing”, Dr Sanan said.

Other devices emit near-infrared light, around 700 or more nanometres, which can promote wound healing and reduce chronic inflammation, he added.

It is unclear exactly how the light produces these effects, said Dr Prem B. Tripathi, a facial plastic surgeon in Alamo, California. But the thought is that skin cells absorb the light and convert it into signals that increase the production of proteins and aid in other aspects of healing.

Some devices emit blue light, usually from 400 to 490 nanometres. These shorter wavelengths are believed to penetrate less deeply into the skin, Dr Sanan said, where they can kill some types of bacteria and reduce oil gland activity, helping to control acne.

Many products can switch between different wavelengths, depending on your needs.

Do at-home masks work?

Although research suggests that light therapy in general can benefit the skin, few controlled trials have been conducted on the types of at-home devices that are popular right now.

In one randomised controlled trial published in 2007, researchers recrui...

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